The Local Guide to a Perfect Day in Lucca
While there are enough things to do in Lucca to stay for weeks (or forever!) - it is also an excellent option for a day trip. Especially if you are staying in a bigger city in nearby. Most of our one-day-only visitors have been coming in from Florence, which is a very easy train ride away for a whirlwind experience. I guarantee you though, after one day here you will already be planning your return for a much longer stay.
And so, here are my recommendations for the perfect day in Lucca.
Catch a regional train from Florence’s main train station (Firenze Santa Maria Novella) towards Viareggio at the civilised time of 9am. This is generally a very simple journey on a train that will stop at a handful of interesting towns before stopping off in Lucca, although beware any track works or strike action!
You will arrive in Lucca around 10:30am.
Make the short walk from the station towards the walls of the city. You cannot miss them. No directions necessary!
Head towards the entrance gate of Porta San Pietro and walk through the underpass, marvelling at how thick the walls are. Up to 30m in some sections! Unlike many towns in Italy with well-preserved walls from the medieval era, Lucca’s were strengthened in the renaissance period to protect the town against cannon fire, not just enemy attacks on foot or horseback.
Once inside the walls, wander through the historic centre and enjoy the street life in Lucca’s many cobbled laneways and piazzas.
Of course, your first task will be to enjoy an Italian breakfast. There are many delightful bars throughout the town, but my favourite for the exceptional quality of the pastry and the terrifyingly stern efficiency of the barista is Pasticceria Dianda. Another excellent option is Pinelli, however the ordering and payment fiasco there is not for the faint of heart. Snagging a table across the street is the perfect spot for Italian people-watching though!
After refuelling, wander northwards through town. Make sure to take Via Fillungo and stop by some of the beautiful shops. There are many luxury and high street brands, but the best experiences in my opinion are the antique jewellery stores. Lucca is known for its amazing antiques. If your visit falls on the third Sunday of the month, you will see some of the region’s best markets for all things vintage and beautiful.
Take a detour off the main drag and try to capture a glimpse of Torre Guinigi through the buildings. This tower is unusual in that it has a number of mature oak trees in its rooftop garden. If you are feeling energetic, a climb to the top on a clear day is well worth the effort. You will get a 360 degree view of the countryside surrounding Lucca, and can appreciate the location of the city as being equidistant from mountains in almost every direction, save that of the sea.
While the climb will certainly help you to work up an appetite, it is much easier than many of the other famous towers in Italy. There are none of the claustrophobic and vertigo-inducing spiral staircases like in Siena, for example.
Once you’ve returned to ground level, you’ll likely be approaching lunchtime.
Head to a local trattoria for a typical Lucchese meal. Tordelli Lucchese is the city’s best-known dish. It is a meat-filled pasta with a rich meat ragu sauce. So definitely not vegetarian! It does speak to the enduring wealth of the town and the region though. Many other examples of cucina povera in Italy (literally translates as poor food, but is used to describe the typical dishes of a region) are pasta, vegetable or grain-based. Not here. Meat on meat.
If you are looking for a traditional lunch spot, try Buca Di Sant’Antonio or Trattoria Da Leo. Lucca is also home to many excellent modern Italian restaurants. My favourites are Osteria La Dritta and, in summer only, Gino Frutta for the best fried anchovies and spaghetti alle vongole I’ve ever eaten.
Take your time over lunch. Enjoy a glass (or bottle) of local wine, and follow it all up with an espresso to aid digestion. Most importantly, do not be afraid to surrender yourself to the recommendations of the wait staff. All the best meals I have had here, without exception, I would not have picked off the menu if left to my own devices. Same for wine.
Once you’ve eaten and drunk your fill, wander leisurely in the time-honoured Italian tradition of a passeggiata. Literally a walk after a meal. Head slowly towards Porta Santa Maria, via Piazza Anfiteatro for a wander through the town’s beautiful oval space.
Walk up the ramp onto the top of the walls and head westwards along the wide, tree-lined path. Enjoy peering back down into all of the gardens and piazzas inside the walls, especially that of Palazzo Pfanner with its amazing gardens and fountains. You can also appreciate the number of towers in the town, many of which are still privately owned.
Depending on how far you feel like walking (a full lap is just over 4km and will take 45min to an hour to complete) just pop back down into the town when you’re ready. The great thing about Lucca is that no matter where you are inside the walls, everything is always a 10 minute walk away and every corner of the city is worth exploring. Some of my favourite parts are outside the very centre, where you can actually imagine living. This is also where most of the best bars, food shops and restaurants are tucked away.
We live in the north-east corner near Piazza San Francesco, along the only street in the town with a canal. It is definitely worth a visit! The water in the fountains along this road is also exceptionally pure, coming directly from the nearby mountains via original Roman aqueducts. Definitely refill your water bottles here!
On your walk, you will require a gelato. If you’re in the northern half of the city, head to Gelateria Momo. My favourite. De’Coltelli is in the very centre and also fabulous if that’s closer to where you are when the need for a cold treat strikes.
Finally, before you walk back towards the station to head home - you’ll probably need a cheeky aperitivo. If the weather is good, head to Undici Undici. A fabulous bar with outdoor seating in a huge piazza in front of one of Lucca’s most impressive churches. If there’s a chill in the air, there are many cosy little corners that will pour you a delicious (and very cheap) glass of wine at any time of day or night. My favourite is Bar Tessieri.
Finally, make the sad trek back to the train station and contemplate your decision to only come for a day. Resolve to return next time for a longer stay!
Arrivederci e buon viaggio!
