A NEW LIFE IN ITALY
As told in letters to my 92 year old grandmother…
#63: Italian “Opening” Hours
This morning I walked back through town after school drop off, and found workers stringing up all the Christmas lights. Apparently they will be lit this coming Saturday evening.
#62: Nonna Brutality
Every day I wake up expecting to find that the classic northern Italian grey skies have finally descended over our beautiful town - but still they have not. Long may this continue! Certainly makes laundry in the land of no tumble dryers much less challenging.
#61: Halloween in Italy
Our week has been dominated by the Lucca Comics and Games festival, which has been taking place here for the past four days - with one more day to go tomorrow.
#60: Italian Customer Service
The Italian interpretation of customer service is - I will give you my advice on the matter at hand, whether you want it or not, because I know more than you. As foreigners, the going-in assumption is that we know absolutely nothing and MUST BE TAUGHT.
#59: Teacher Strikes and Bureaucratic Birthdays
Strike action in Italy is standard business, and is especially common on the rails - usually taking place on a Sunday. The sciopero is always advised well in advance, so it is usually only the most unfortunate of tourists who really get left high and dry.
#58: Oh No Poncho
After the four of us being in the most perfect of health for the 14 weeks of summer holidays, Leo has chosen one of his first weeks' back at full time school to come down with un raffreddore (a cold).
#57: Mamma RAI
Lucca is famously wet in October, and this year it has started right on time. Gone are the shorts and t-shirts of a month ago, and on with the jackets, ponchos and umbrellas.
#56: Tellaro & Round Three with Italian Medicare
We've just returned from a magical three days at my favourite seaside escape in Liguria. Tellaro is truly something special.
#55: Seasonal Insanity
Technically, it is still summer until this Sunday 22 September. A concept that almost broke our Australian brains.
#54: Arrivederci Summer
Summer is finally coming to an end here in Lucca, and with that is the slow return to normal life. The temperature is now consistently back below 30 degrees, and we've had a couple of spectacular storms overnight that have finally brought some rain.
#53: The Elusive Permesso di Soggiorno
I don't want to call it too soon, but I believe that we might have almost made it to the end of another Italian August. And while I wouldn't say we are completely mentally and emotionally unscathed, we've done pretty well.
#52: Arrivo, Eh!
The beginning of a new week has brought with it the signs of an economy creaking back to life. The work site at the end of our road, which has been as silent as the grave for a fortnight, is back in action. Albeit for very reduced hours.
#51: Chiuso Per Ferie
Today is the famous il Ferragosto. They say that the Melbourne Cup is the race that stops a nation (increasingly less true in the last few years I think) - but it has nothing on the fifteenth of August in Italy. The day that somehow manages to stop a nation for two weeks.
#50: Frog … and Other Olympic Sports
This week it is the turn of the French to invade Lucca. They are, of course, as stylish as tourists come. They are never sweaty, and they are impossibly aloof. They never, ever point at anything.
#49: Panic at the Checkout
I can see why whole economies in southern Europe grind to a halt in the summer months - it is simply impossible to operate with energy and efficiency in this heat. The only course of action is to find a spot in the shade and rest for as many hours of the day as possible.
#48: Italians Don’t Share Pizza
Can we talk about pizza? Obviously it is an Italian dish, so I recognise that criticising the way Italians eat pizza already has me on rocky ground. But Italians don't order pizze to share.
#47: Why Australians Can’t Have Nice Things
With summer well and truly underway here, we've been looking for activities to do with the kids that don't involve just sitting at home with the blinds down and the fans running, spying out the windows at anyone crazy enough to be out in the heat.
#46: One Year In Italy!
Today is officially our one year anniversary of moving to Italy! On 10 July 2023, we landed at Pisa's Galileo Galilei Airport in 38 degree weather. It feels simultaneously like it was last week, and a decade ago.
#45: Italian Summer Camp
I always used to wonder how families coped with the neverending Italian summer break, but now I know. Either they have retired grandparents on hand (sometimes living in the same building), or they send their children to campi estivi.
#44: In Pursuit of Perfect Cross Ventilation
I dream of achieving perfect cross-ventilation. Our neighbours think we are insane for keeping our windows open all the time. And we feel the same about them having theirs permanently shut, with blinds down.