#12: Local Cycling Culture

Ciao Nonni!

David is home after a fortnight back in Australia, with visa successfully in hand! I didn't really talk about it, but there was a risk that he was going to have to spend 90 days out of the EU which obviously didn't even bear thinking about. Luckily we have managed to secure him a 12 month permission to stay which is not linked to my application for citizenship, so now we are all sorted for at least the next year which should be plenty of time for our passports to come through. The bambini were obviously very excited to see him, which was very sweet. 

I spoke last week about the things that distinguish locals from tourists and foreigners, and since then I have noticed so many more. I have had to start a list. Books could be (and have been) written on this topic!

Our primary mode of transport here in Italy is by bicycle (bicicletta) and we've already accumulated quite a collection. We don't own a car and while the public transport over longer distances is fabulous (i.e. the trains), the local bus network is significantly less reliable and comprehensive. What I have noticed about bikes in Lucca is that, as a local, the rustier and more generally decrepit your bike looks, the better. Nothing marks a foreigner more clearly than a shiny new cruiser bike without a scratch on it. Honestly, some of the contraptions I have seen being ridden around town put me in mind to update my tetanus vaccination.

The only exception to this rule is if you own a Bianchi (a very old and famous brand of Italian bike) - in this case it must be impeccably maintained and cared for as if it was your own child. 

Cycling is not limited to lycra-clad lunatics or insufferable greenies (both of which I have been described as by irate Australian drivers as they shouted out their windows at me) but is seen as a legitimate and, indeed, intelligent choice of transport. Bikes are allowed in the historical centre of Lucca, where cars are not, and can be parked literally anywhere. As a very flat town, you can easily ride all around on the hottest of days and still arrive in no worse a state than you would had you been walking at a leisurely pace. We obviously love it.

There is a woman who I see around almost every day and she is incredible. She must be well into her 80s and she still rides everywhere. Watching her climb off her bike and she seems to age 30 years, she walks slowly and with a pronounced stoop but on the pedals she is upright and confident. It is truly a joy to watch her. 

Raffy's Italian is coming along. I have noticed that when she sings or makes up words and names, they now all have a very Italian sound to them. Before every meal she says "uno, due, tre ... mangia!" and last weekend at the cafe she ordered "una spremuta d'arancia" perfectly, which even I struggle to say without tripping up on the second R. She was very pleased with herself!

Lots of love and hugs from Lucca.

Kate

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#11: Tourists, Foreigners and Locals